When I am doing makeup I don't see an eyelid as simply an eyelid. To me, it's a canvas. Each set of eyes have their own qualities, and with makeup I can do all sorts of things to enhance them. One of the things I love about makeup is there is so much you can do in terms of shading and contouring to highlight or enhance areas on our face. We can make small eyes look bigger, and for those who have a monolid we can create the look of an eyelid( if that is what you prefer).
To start, you willl need to figure out what eye shape you have. Some of you might be able to determine this simply by looking at the pictures below. Here is a trick to help you figure out if you have wide set, close set or average eyes. First, measure the width of your eye. Then, measure the distance between the inner corner of each eye. If it is about one eye width apart your eyes are average, if it is less your eyes are close set, and if it is more your eyes are wide set.
Individuals with hooded eyes have an extra layer of skin that hides their eyelid area. Deep set eyes look like they sound. They are set deeper into the skull. Because of this, the brow bone looks more prominent. Similarly, prominent lids are found on those who have an eye that is typically large in size, and may look as though it is protruding outwards. When I was doing research to make sure I covered each eye shape, I read a lot of posts where women were unhappy with their large lids, hooded lids, etc. Ladies! It always seems like we want what we don't have. Bigger eyed women want smaller, and smaller eyed women want bigger. I say work with what you've got. Make it work for you. Hopefully some of the tips I give below will help you embrace whatever type of eyes you were born with!
I found an eye shape chart online and liked how it demonstrated the eye both open and shut. Let's go through the various eye shapes and I will discuss the eyeshadow placement of each.
Average: This eye is pretty straight forward, the eyes on this face are spread evenly apart.You have room to play around with this eye shape. In the photo most of the darker colour is placed in the crease and at the outer edge. This is the ever popular smokey eye look. I am guilty of loving it too as I am wearing it in the photo I took for this blog post!
Wide set: When applying eye shadow to wide set eyes the goal is to create the illusion that the eyes are closer together. To do this: apply your darker colours on the inner corner of the eye, lighter in the middle of the lid with an accent on the outer corner. This will create a larger looking eye and the dark colour on the inner corners will make the eyes look closer together.
Close set: With close set eyes you want to use your eye shadow to create the opposite effect of wide set. Use your lightest shade on the inner corner of the eye, and then blend your colours out with the darkest colour on the outside corners of your lids. By highlighting the inner corner and adding depth to the outer corner you will create the illusion that your eyes are further apart.
Deep set: Because these eyes will be set deeper into the skull they will be shaded by your brow bone. Make sure to use your lighter eye shadow colours on the lid to brighten it up and add a bit of accent colour to your brow bone. When applying mascara make sure your eyelashes are dry before fully opening your eyes up as the mascara may smudge onto your upper lid area.
Prominent lids: Individuals with this eye shape have eye lid area to spare! To make sure that your eye lid area isn't overpowering apply darker shades of colour to the majority of your lid with a pop of highlight on the inside corner of the eyelid into. Blend well and have fun with it!
Hooded lids: Because of the extra layer of skin covering your eye lid you will want to use colours to your advantage to open your eye up. Do not use dark colours near your lash line as that will make your eyes look smaller, and possibly droopy. Instead use your lighter, neutral tones on your lid to open it up. Apply a thin layer of eyeliner on top, or tightline your lid to make your eyes really pop (tightlining is applying eye liner beneath the lash line of your upper eye lid). To find out how to tightline click here. Add a bit of accent colour by blending it up and over your crease.
Monolid: The eyelid area on a monolid is quite flat, and is typically found on individuals of Asian descent. There is not a prominent crease. You can add a crease if you like the look of a defined crease by applying a darker shadow around the the curve of your opened eye. Then apply your darker shades on the outer edge of the lid and blend inwards. Another option is to apply darker shadows near the lash line and blend upwards. Creating a sort of ombré look that will really open up your eye area and make them pop.
Mascara: If your lashes are straight, curl them with an eyelash curler, and then apply mascara. Some people apply mascara first saying that it holds the curl better with mascara on the lash. My advice would be to make sure you properly clean your eyelash curler after each use if you are using it after you've applied your mascara. You do not want to risk any bacteria getting into your eyes. If you have curly lashes (like me) you can skip the eyelash curling and apply a few coats of mascara by wiggling your brush at the lash line and sweeping it out to the edges of your lash. I like to apply a few coats of mascara for a bold lash look.
Eyeliner: My advice for eyeliner is less is more (when it comes to a daily look). For my daily look I like to line the top of my upper eyelid area (heavier towards the outer edge) and underneath my lower lash line. Applying black liner to your waterline works well for those with large eyes. However, if you have smaller eyes it will make your eye look even smaller. To make eyes appear larger apply an off white, nude, or rose gold eyeliner to your waterline. It will really open your eyes up, making them appear larger. That is what I did in the photo below.
Phew! That was a long one. Remember, if you have any questions at all please don't hesitate to contact me, or message me on my Facebook page!
Thanks for reading!
Favourite Bridal Makeup Artist
I am a freelance makeup artist who works out of Waterloo. I am an Ontario qualified teacher with a passion for makeup. I love to help people look and feel their very best!